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Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and So Much More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on Unesco Gastronomy List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the vessel's cover tightly sealed with dough.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.

The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.

A Global Honor

Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".

The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.

A City Defined by Food

The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.

"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is celebrated for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.

These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.

But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Frothy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city presents special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind cloud-like dessert, during winter months.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.

In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall offering masala chai
A legendary tea stall is known for its creamy masala chai.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.

On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.

By

Paul Morales

Eva is a local artist and passionate storyteller, sharing her love for Nijmegen's vibrant art scene through insightful posts.

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